March 8 - Laukota

 I now know how Columbus felt when he first saw land after leaving Spain. We were greeted with wonderful sunshine as we entered the port of Laukota, Fiji on the island of Viti Levu. This is our second visit to Fiji.  We had a short stay on the island in 2020 and had a marvellous time.

 Coming into the main island, you realize just how mountainous Fiji truly is.  Everywhere you look you see  jagged peaks that are covered with lush tropical vegetation.  We are arriving at the end of the rainy season, so everything is green and full.  This must of have looked like paradise to the Europeans when they arrived in the 1790s.


 Fiji is a multi-cultural country. It consists of indigenous Fijians and Fijian Indians. Fijian Indians migrated in the late 19th century as part of a British program to take indentured slaves from India and offer them their freedom if they worked in the sugar cane fields for five years. This accounted for 80,000 workers and their families.

 Laukota is known as Sugar City, because it is the main industry of the city.  Unfortunately, the downtown shopping has a very unsafe vibe. It is crowded and dirty. We had some stupid young punk try to pickpocket me by distracting me while his friend approached me from behind. I knew immediately what was going on and secured my wallet with my hand while telling him to take a hike, or words like that.

 We got the VIP treatment for excursion today. We were the only ones who had booked this trip with Expedia, so we had our very own driver in a very comfortable Toyota SUV. Kir was a very religious and spiritual driver. It seemed that he had thanked God for our blessings, several times before we had even left the harbour.

 He provided us with his own personal insights into life on the island.  Poverty is in plain site everywhere you look. Houses are mere tin shacks. There are many roadside vendors of fresh fruit and vegetables, which must provide them with some form of income. The cost of items, that we consider essential, are beyond the budget of the ordinary citizen, such as cars, bikes, TVs internet, and washing machines. 

 Because the number of cruise ships stopping in Fiji is way down from the pre-covid days, KIr's income is now about $5,000 (Canadian). On this he supports his wife and adopted son, yet he is very happy and considers his life as hard but rewarding. When he dropped us off at the pier, he thanked us profusely and indicated that he might be our guide tomorrow in Suva Fiji.

 Our excursion was to the Thermal Mud Baths. A thermal pool was discovered by American Airmen stationed in Fiji during the Second World War. After the war a local farmer bought the land and developed the area into a popular spa.  Now it is fully staffed by his family and local villagers.

 We were among the first customers to arrive this morning. First you cover yourself entirely in slimy black mud that is collected fresh each day, if can call mud fresh, The dried mud acts as an exfoliant.. After waiting for the mud to dry, about 10 minutes, you enter three different pools to wash off the mud. Each pool gets progressively warmer with the last pool feeling like a nice warm hot tub. 

 These pools are quite large and filled from the hot underground spring, which is about 75 degrees Celsius. Of course the temperature at each pool is carefully regulated to ensure no one is burnt.


 Later Marg got a relaxing massage. As you can imagine, we slept like babies when we got back to the boat.

 One of the tour buses that arrived after us, for some unknown reason, decided not to stay in the parking area for vehicles and instead drove up and onto a grassy area inside the grounds. As you can imagine after three months of rain, this area was very soggy, and the huge bus got stuck. It took them about an hour to drag the bus out of the ruts it had made.

Close to the spa is a mountain peak, known as the Sleeping Giant. At the bottom of the mountain, there is an orchid garden that was started by the Canadian actor Raymond Burr.


Our evening’s entertainment was a repeat performance by the pianist Shelly White. I have to admit that even though she is very talented, I prefer the pianist who performs in the Martini Bar.

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